This is the 13th edition of Fete de la Musique in Lebanon! Fete de la Musique is an awesome celebration of music and live acts that happens all around the city, and more recently the entire country. It’s open and free to anyone, and is a great opportunity to walk around our streets and discover new talents, and get serenaded by local and international favorites.
Mar Mikhael and Karantina
I’m excited about the Grand Factory event, which you can RSVP for here. I haven’t seen Tanjaret Daghet in such a long time! Radio Beirut’s too, which you can RSVP to here.
Downtown and Gemmayzeh
Opera, Jazz and Choirs
Across Lebanon
Tripoli, Batroun, Zahle, Saida, Sebeel, Zouk Mikael, Ain Zhalta, Deir El Qamar and Baalbek are part of the fun this year! So, if you’re used to going to Fete in Beirut, I really recommend you go and explore some of the other venue where it’s happening this year.
Zahle’s is exceptionally good, and last year was amazing, with a perfect location and thousands of people attending. It’s also not that far of a drive! Maybe Colonel Beer too? And if you’re really in for a road trip, Baalbek?
I love abandoned places and Berlin has a LOT of them. Blogs like Abandoned Berlin are my favorite resource for abandoned site hunting, which I highly recommend.
One of the nicest sites I’ve visited while living in Berlin was the US NSA Field Station which was a huge “listening station” spying facility in the Cold Wars days. Its location is as important as its practical function, since its large space-age-like orbs sit on top of a man-made hill, 80 meters above the rest of Berlin. This made it a powerful psychological weapon as well, with Soviet forces constantly seeing the white orbs in the distance, knowing (or at least believing) they’re listening in on their every conversation and move.
The hill, Teufelsberg (devil’s hill), is man-made with the rubble from post-WWII Berlin. Apparently, a Nazi college that was being built at that site proved too difficult to demolish, so instead the allies decided to burry it under the millions of tons of rubble to prevent it from becoming a shrine for modern-day facists (same was done with places like Hitler’s Bunker, which today is just a parking spot walking distance from the Holocaust victims memorial).
Getting There
While on the way, I realized the trip there is half the fun. It’s inside the massive Grunewald forest, which like many of Berlin’s parks is massive and feels wild. You won’t find manicured flowerbeds and tended mazes here, just clear (and sometimes not-so-clear) foot and mountain bike paths that snake through the forest and up the Teufelsberg hill.
The way up (while a bit lost)
To be honest, I got a bit lost and Google Maps was being wonky because of the dense forests, so, I am not ashamed to admit I used PokemonGo since the only things it shows are the paths (even the walking paths) and the Teufelsberg field station had a handful of pokestops and gym I could navigate towards. Sadly, I just caught a couple of Weedles, but I’m not complaining, it got me un-lost and helped me guide a lost French dude who also had G-maps trouble. Plus, the half an hour I spent figuring out where I was proved to be the nicest part of my trek. I also came across GORGEOUS drangonflies, beetles and a couple cute wild rabbits on my way!
A bench with a view to rest your tired legs after getting lost
The Site
Once you get to the top, you follow a heavily patched-up fence with signs that point towards the “Eingang” (entrance). I wasn’t sure if it was accessible at this point, but when I saw these signs, I did like a good European and I followed them. The gates were open, a handful of German millennials were having beers and playing a card game. Entrance was 7 euros for a non-student and you could pick up a few beers from the fridge nearby if you didn’t get some with you.
The site felt more like an anarchist music festival venue, with weird, grungy, steampunk installations and murals everywhere with organic greenhouses and orchards littered between the dilapidated buildings and disused construction equipment. Lots of the art had a political message to it, especially with regards to the Cold War and the American presence there.
Plenty of gorgeous murals in and around the station
Inside the actual spy station, it feels more like a museum exhibit for street art, with hastily-erected walls with fresh murals on them dividing the large, high-cielinged floors and other visitors admiring and trying to decipher the meanings of each. What’s nice is that the floor-to-cieling windows are mostly gone and you get breathtaking views of Berlin in the distance on one side, and en expansive forest with a lake on the other.
Once you reach the top, you’re next to the two big bulbous globes, with the middle one a few floors higher. The views from up there are awesome, especially with the orbs (which are still largely intact somehow) inside your frames of the nearby lake and forests, or Berlin and its TV tower in the distance.
Panoramic view from the top
Worth the Visit
If you like urban exploration, but wouldn’t mind some nature too on your urbex forrays, then this is a must when you’re in Berlin. I know some people prefer breaking into a dirty place that doesn’t charge an entrance fee for a somewhat kept clean, safe and tidy space. But, hey, it’s better than falling into a manhole full of broken beer bottles and used needles. I didn’t mind paying the 7 euros, especially since you can get your own stuff with you and have a picnic or bbq or just a few beers there. Plus, with all the rich history, contemporary art and ruins, think of it as a more relaxed version of a museum where you’re allowed to drink beer and have a smoke.
The Jounieh Bay fireworks show has become a yearly tradition many people look forward to. Those with boats anchor them in the bay, others meet up at friends, or book a table at a restaurant or pub that overlooks the iconic bay.
This year’s show is this Saturday, and starts at 10:00PM and will last for a whopping 11 minutes straight. If you feel like something cool, or have a camera and wanna try to capture the semi-circular bay lit up, then you might wanna go to your favorite place overlooking the bay.
Beware though, traffic will be a bitch, both before and after, so plan accordingly. Jounieh traffic is already notorious, on Saturday, and in the lead up to the Eid el Fitr holiday, it’ll be significantly worse than it usually is. Maybe it’s time to brush up on your bike skills?
Also, let’s hope the municipality doesn’t attack anyone for playing loud music this Saturday!
Check out more awesome shots by Georges Asmar below:
I love this station because it’s still largely unknown and untouched. The other abandoned train stations, from the time when Lebanon still had public transport, are usually close to roads and highways. This means they’ve been vandalized and abused by people for decades, without an effort to protect or maintain them. Some people steal the steel railways that cost a fortune, others use the station as a public restroom or somewhere to keep cattle.
Fortunately, this station is nestled under a small road between the towns of Araya and Chouit, just above Jamhour and under Aley. This means that not a lot of people know it exists, which is awesome to go get a glimpse of what it must’ve been like there before.
Sadly, since my last visit, part of the main building has collapsed, and it seems someone stole the iconic clock that people would look at to see when the next train was due… But, it’s still gorgeous, and here are some photos I took.
I love abandoned places, and try to go there and snap some photos whenever I can. Follow me on Instagram for live coverage, cause it takes me a while to post them on here usually!
If you watch the videos below, you’d think whoever was beaten to a pulp is a suspected suicide bomber, or a serial killer, or a child rapist. It’s none of those, it’s peaceful protesters in front of the Beirut Municipality and Lebanese Parliament expressing their outrage at a third illegal extension of their term, years after their legitimacy expired.
Watch the savage beating of unarmed, peaceful protesters. The excessive use of force is sickening, especially that the protesters pose no threat whatsoever, and their demands are justified, and their right to express it is sacrosanct in the Lebanese Constitution’s preamble.
This is why they got such a harsh beating: they threw eggs and tomatos at the MPs’ cars. If anything, the illegitimate MPs should get a ticket for going the wrong way on a one-way street in the heart of Beirut’s Central District. Instead though, the “parliament guard”, the same ones that shot live rounds during the 2015 protests and beat the shit out of several protesters after being gassed.
The third nail in Lebanon’s Democracy’s coffin was hammered in today. Slowly, painfully, till most of Lebanon’s taxpayers didn’t even notice the extension happened today. Our third in almost 10 years. The ones that did notice though, wouldn’t take it silent and at home, and went to express the outrage at the illegitimate MPs cars after they signed a deal robbing us of our right to vote for the third time. For that, they got batons to the face while they lay, pinned down in the streets by men that should not be wearing the Lebanese Army fatigues and Cedar tree.
Heads should roll for this disgusting violence today. Maybe the new Army Commander General Aoun can show us he can do what is necessary to discipline individuals that have tarnished the name and image of the Lebanese Army, and continued to do so, even more grotesquely, today.
Keep up to date with everything You Stink is doing here
This is my favorite track discovery this week. It was released on Life and Death, which have never, ever disappointed me. The vocal elements with the synths and yummy bassline merge perfectly for quite a surprise of a dreamy track.
Cloudy Monday — Keith Carnal
Come on, you didn’t really think I’d not include a pure Techno track in this list? Please. This track released last month by Keith Carnal on Afterlife. It really does have the Afterlife Tale of Us Vibe, and it’s beautiful. That 4-kick, with the soundscapes and slow build up with subtle transitions. Akh. You will be hearing this in clubs this summer in Beirut ❤
Human Picture (Toki Fuko Remix) — Doyeq
I just picked this awesome Doyeq track up on Shazam somewhere last weekend, but can’t remember where. Instantly fell in love. Solid, mellow track!
Here’s a fresh one from Gab Rhome for All Day I Dream, just in time for the summer and the whole ADID vibe!
Eclipse — Mind Against & Aether
I love Mind Against, and the collab with Aether turned out really awesome. Beautifully crafted and layered, with synths that’ll make you enjoy surfing around the kick drum and bassline of this track.
Cidre Circles — Tightshirt
The last track is a bit on the groovy side, and why not during summer? At the beach, sunset coming, and you drop this track with the sound of crashing waves? Yes, please.
We’ve been protesting in the streets since before we could legally drink alcohol. At first, it was protesting for big, ideological titles and protests and movements were well organized by the traditional political parties in Lebanon. But that changed, and I’m so happy it did.
2015’s Garbage-Induced Seismic Shockwave
In 2015, an earth-shattering paradigm shift happened and the country’s youth broke up with the political parties in light of their criminally stupid and corrupt handling of the garbage crisis, which we are still drowning and swimming in till this day.
It was further solidified when a few months later, independent, anti-establishment and pro-reform lists ran for the municipal elections all across the country.
The shift happened when demanding in the streets, turned into running with an airtight platform, with gender-balanced lists that are openly non-sectarian and transparently crowdfunded. And most importantly, got shock results that saw all the political parties colluding with all their funding, get less than 60%, while the crowdfunded, independent Beirut Madinati list got more than 40%.
If you want proof of how resounding the impact of those municipal elections was, just look how desperately the political elite in Lebanon are trying to push the elections further. Their soap opera handling of the electoral law, with pathetic reasons like “the weather will be bad, so let’s push the elections a year” is proof of how worried they are. How petrified they are of the ballot boxes.
And who can blame them? They have been rearranging their alliances, with mortal enemies suddenly going on TV and telling us all that they’re allied now and no one can change that (given that most of the people in those parties still bicker, and make it to the news, forcing the godfathers to go and reassert their weird, nonsensical alliance after decades of hatred that was never really resolved). They did nothing in their stolen time, but plunge us further into debt and the country into disrepair.
We Need to Get Better Organized
We have 11 months to prepare. Personally, I think the rotten politicians will try to extend for themselves even further, but let’s assume the situation is bad enough, that no excuse of bad weather or “training” people to vote will last past next May. Plus, let’s use their illegal extension to our advantage, and make sure we organize and prepare our candidates and lists to destroy them next elections and start running the country for its taxpayers, not its tax-evading billionaires.
Our Weaknesses
Ego-Driven Disputes and a Transparent Process to Select our Candidates
Most of the prominent activists and community organizers are good friends of mine, and we have worked shoulder to shoulder as the authorities beat some of us to a pulp, tried to smear us and throw us in jail.
However, one thing many of those activists lack is the legitimacy from average voters. No one voted for these people, so how can they speak on everyone’s behalf? Why are they the ones that decide when we protest, why and for how long? Those are just some of the comments heard, and the reason groups bicker amongst themselves sometimes so publicly.
This isn’t an attack against the activist leaders, but many stumbling blocks in our movement was because of political maneuvering by one group or the other. Therefore, it’s time to create a mechanism where the voters themselves can decide, before we get to the elections, who will run for us and who can really win at the ballot box.
Primary elections could be one way. Hold primary elections in districts we plan to run, so voters can register with us their support, and choose the pool of candidates we will eventually help get into office. If primary elections are too costly and difficult, and there are many other ways to find the people we need in office who have so far stayed out of the limelight.
We need candidates that work on the ground, who are experts in their fields and who have given to Lebanon more than a few protests and sound bites on the evening news. The criteria for who can qualify as a candidate for us, need to be clear and every candidate needs to meet them, no matter what.
No Cannibalizing Each Other
If different independent groups decide they want to run in X district, they shouldn’t run against each other, but together. If group A has better chances in dictrict X, group B should throw their support behind them, and group A will throw their support behind group B in a district where group B has better chances of winning.
The scenario of Charbel Nahhas’ group and other independent groups poaching votes from each other that ultimately only help the establishment, cannot happen in the next elections. We need to coordinate, sit down and decide what is the smartest way of tackling the elections and making sure our boys and girls make it to office, and transform our demands in the streets into concrete action translated into government policy.
One Campaign, Many Groups
We need to go into the elections under one campaign. All the groups, with their different areas of operation, different platforms, different hopes and aspirations on the details of reforming this country, need to form an electoral coalition.
We cannot fall into the trap of coalitions being “Maronite weddings” in that they cannot be broken or changed no matter what. This isn’t the Feudal Age, no one needs to pledge allegiance to anything or anyone except their country. These groups might not agree on absolutely everything, but that doesn’t mean they can’t run together because the broad points are the same.
Non-sectarianism, independence from foreign powers (Arab or otherwise), reform and fighting corruption, environmentally friendly policies, focusing on infrastructure and development nationwide (not just Beirut and its immediate surroundings), fair elections, judicial reform, electoral reform, gender equality and a respect for basic human and civil rights.
Does one group prefer sorting garbage from the source, while the other wants to make sorting plants? So fucking what? Get to power, then decide with a vote and the resources and information at the government’s disposal which option is best, most cost-effective and environmentally sound.
This isn’t falling into the trap of “steam rollers” (ma7edel) where everyone just melts into an amorphous blob of ambiguous political opinions like our traditional parties’ electoral alliances (7ilf el roube3e anyone?). It’s being smart, and agreeing on the broad titles, while maintaining each group’s independence and unique agenda. After all, this is what voters will support, and just being “anti” something isn’t enough, we need to show our own plans and what we want to do, not just what we all are against or hate. Kinda like Beirut Madinati did.
The Beirut Madinati Experiment
Beirut Madinati was a very educational experience for everyone involved. The mechanism of selecting candidates, how to fundraise, how to campaign, how to create a detailed, optimistic yet pragmatic platform, and most importantly, how to mobilize people into a loose coalition that had a massive impact.
We should focus on our strongpoints in that campaign, and work on the ones we found needed improvement. The BM model was the most successful attempt we’ve had at going into government, and under a fairer law, we’d have more than third of the seats, given we won one of the 3 electoral districts of Beirut (in the parliamentary elections district of the 1960 law) with a 15 point lead and lost to slim margins in the other 2.
Municipal elections are very different from parliamentary ones though, and we need to get that and make sure the difference is clear. Municipal elections are far more developmental in their concerns, with political leanings not as big of a deciding factor in how people vote, like in parliamentary ones.
Parliamentary elections happen all across the country, at the same time. They also decide the fate of the entire country, not just your hometown or village. They’re a far, far larger effort in terms of scope, funds, volunteers and issues. And I think we can be ready for that in the 11 extra months the current parliament has stolen from us.
It’s Time
Meetings have been ongoing for months, but none have delivered the results we are all hoping for. Yet. The work should come out from the shadows and into the public, including the maximum number of groups and individuals who can run and vote.
Organizing election campaigns should get underway, and figuring out the campaign title and slogan that will unite all of them in a coalition that can get us results, and into parliament, and best of all, the current failures out of it (or some of them at the very least).
There are many names I’d like to see run for elected office, and some of them have already shown intent to run, with some having their teams and platforms already in order and ready to launch.
Joumana Haddad and Ziad Baroud are the potential candidates and candidates I am most excited about. Both are inspirations for so many of us, and I personally love them both and respect the work they‘ve put in trying to make Lebanon the way we want it to be, not the way the current establishment has made it the past few decades.
I’d love to see names from Beirut Madinati, like Yorgui Teyrouz, Ibrahim Mneimneh, Mona Hallak and Serge Yazigi run too.
It will be interesting to see what prominent names and figures from the 7irak that formed in 2015, might run as well. Assaad Thebian, Wadih El Asmar, Marwan Maalouf, Imad Bazzi and many others.
Anyway, it’s time to start work guys. From now till the elections, I will do my best to cover what’s happening, help highlight candidates I support and how we hope to win the seats we deserve. I’ll also try to cover candidates that do not deserve to be re-elected for the dismal performance they have shown us the past years with no elections…
We all try getting a window seat on the flight from wherever your connection is back to Beirut. Specifically, the left side of the plane. There’s just something about zooming past the Beirut skyline that never gets old.
Most of the time, we are at the office, or in class, or at the beach, or dancing a night away as the jets come in above us for landing. Sometimes though, we’re on those planes and we try to take in as much of the scenery as we can, and I always wonder what everyone else is up to in those buildings and traffic on those streets.
Anyway, last time I was flying in to Beirut, I took these shots right before we landed. There was a bit of smog that day, so I edited the photos a bit so they look less apocalyptic nuclear fallout.
Yesterday, we went up to Ehden and the Cedars of God to escape the blistering heat on the coast, and we were not disappointed. Many of the shots were taken from delightful off-road trails in the Arez area, and all the way up the mountain so we could see both the Mediterranean coast (covered in fog) and the Bekaa Valley and neighboring Syria.
Most shots taken by Elige AY as I was driving, with just a handful taken by me when we’d pause to take in the views.
Make sure you check out Elige AY’s “From My Closet” project, where she discusses her plan to wear a costume every day for an entire year to challenge social stereotypes and encourage others to be whoever they want to be without worrying too much about what people say or think!
Despite all the negative political and economic situation, there is plenty of love and appreciate in our tiny, chaotic Lebanon. This drone footage by Alien Lens uses the freedom that this tech has provided to capture parts of Lebanon you probably have never seen, at least from that angle, and parts we all know and love.
It’s 2 and a half minutes of serene, awe-inspiring captures of our beloved country. If you’re anything like me, you’ll love these cinematic shots of Lebanon’s rural areas and significant landmarks. Maybe send it to a friend who’s still undecided about coming for a visit this summer?